Here we can see the side view of the motor mount with the zip ties holding it in place. We added a switch inline and taped it to the pipe with some electrical tape so we have an easy way of starting and stopping the setup.
The next step is to attach the sprocket with arm to the motor. Most sprockets use a simple Alan wrench to tighten a screw that holds the motor in place. Make this screw is tight to prevent any damage to the motor.
Here we have the second arms drive motor attached to end of the first arm. The wires conveniently fit inside the u channel keeping them out of the way.
The second drive motors battery pack is mounted in the center of the primary arm to help keep the setup balanced as well as to reduce the amount of counter weights used for this build. You are welcome to power your build however you want, but one tip to take away is the more weight at the ends of the arms the more counter weights you needs. The total overall weight will determine your power needs and battery life.
Here we have some aluminum blocks I had laying around that I used as the counter weight for my build. It’s a good practice to have it as balanced as possible to maintain stability and create clean geometry in the time laps shots.