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The Console
The main structure of the control console comes from a single sheet of 28 gauge
sheet metal. We paid about 5.00 at Home Depot for this stainless 12" X 24"
sheet. We chose stainless for some basic aesthetics as well as to reduce the
amount of work it would require to finish this out. If you want you can look
for other materials and finish it out differently. But this suits us just fine.
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While we were at Home Depot we also
picked up a 1/2 inch aluminum rod for the gear shifter. Steel is just as good,
or iron for that matter. We chose the aluminum for the same reasons of finish.
Its already shiny. Shiny = BLING!!!! |
| While we were on a trip at the local auto
parts store we also we found this little beauty of a shifter knob. This shifter
has that spiffy carbon fiber mesh and a mess of LEDs inside of it as well.
Press the button on top of it and you have a nearly limitless amount of color
and blinking options... obviously developed by a geek. But I suppose even gear
heads can appreciate that. |
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After some hunting online for some form
of a master kill switch for the simulator we came across this hot little
number. Classified as an aircraft safety switch, it is red anodized and high
amp, the hood when closed opens the circuit and thus kills the input to the
motion system. it set us back about $15.00 or so, but come on! stuff like this
its bling-a-rific! and almost as cool as go faster stripes! |
| The first mockup of our control system.
Using some cardboard and tape we were able to make this mockup and set it on
the platform to try to get a good fit. This is a very good way to not only find
the best place for all the controls, but also to endure an ergonomic and
comfortable system overall. |
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Starting to build out the control system.
Bending the metal was really easy. I just used a metal ruler to keep a straight
line. Then I manually bent the metal until it looked right. A couple light
welds in the corners where the ends met and the shape was all set. This also
gives a ridged shape to be mounted permanently on the platform and gives you
one last chance on the mounting of the controls. |
| With the existing shifter removed from
the hinge in the controller this is what we are left with. Basically the 2
springs face upwards and press agents the inside top of the control housing we
just built. |
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We have to modify the shifter hinge a bit
for our use. using a 1/2 inch drill bit we have to drill out a notch that is
protruding in the inside of the hole that the shifter handle will be mounted
in. Using a good pair of leather gloves and a good drill is all it takes. When
I put the new shaft into the hinge I had to use a rubber mallet to hammer it in
because it was so snug. If it is to loose some super glue or even epoxy will
keep it in place. |
| Cut the shifter controls out of the
duplicate set of controls in the wheel leaving some slack on the cable plug.
This will easily mount to the hinge and using a small peace of wood. Use the 4
holes on it to mount it to the wood. Place it below the hinge with the springs
facing up so that the hinge when rocked will press the springs on top of the
buttons and there for press the buttons themselves. Splice into the cable leads
and run them up to the original connection in the steering wheel. |
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With the control panel finished connect
the controller to your computer and test it well. Connect the main the large
safety switch to the common ground of the relay feed wire form the controller
to the relay set. This will interrupt the signal and prevent it from moving.
Connect the small switch to the control leads as a override to the controller.
This will allow you to level the platform with out the controller being used. |
| Finally mount the control panel with a
couple screws to the wood base of the platform. Run all the cables you need in
the conduit that runs along the side of the top platform and you're done. Use a
little rubbing alcohol to clean up any magic marker marks you may have left and
make it look all shiny. |
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