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Assembly
and Fabrication:
Ok,
we have stripped this printer down to its skivvies,
and it is now time to have some fun building it
out. This printer is, electronically speaking, basically
a clean slate (minus a few... um... slate parts).
We will now start to add the components that will
change its intended purpose to that of our warped
geekiness. |
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| Take
a moment to tear apart the second paper shredder
you picked up from the Super Mega S-Mart type place.
Remove the motor, cutting the leads with ample wire
to work with, and position it carefully between
the drive gears (“it” being the motor
and not your fingers, preferably). Using a sharpie,
mark where the holes on the mounting bracket should
be and drill the holes with a 1/8th drill bit. Use
the existing screws from the paper shredder to mount
the motor firmly in place on the previous motor
occupant’s mounting plate. |
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| Next,
cut the plug end off the existing power lead that
formerly provided power to the original printer
power supply. Strip the wire ends. Do the same to
the power leads of the motor, five volt power supply,
and shredder. Using wire nuts or crimp connectors,
permanently attach the wires together to help avoid
shorts. These connections need to be secure, as
you’re dealing with unadulterated 120v AC
power here. If you’re not familiar, consult
an electrician (Remember, this article is for entertainment
purposes only, if someone gets killed, dismembered,
maimed, emotionally scarred, or electrocuted, it’s
their own damn fault). Mount the power supply inside
the case with a few drops of superglue (inadvertent
gluing of yourself to the case isn’t our fault
either). |
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Here
is a basic diagram of the circuit that we used.
We chose a simple 3909-based oscillator. We used
two older LM 3909 IC’s we had laying around
and one 100-UF, 6-volt-electrolytic capacitor. As
you can see, the circuit is really simple. We doubled
the oscillators to allow independent control to
the 2 paper feeders. The circuit can be made variable
with great ease, but with some basic experimentation
of the values of the components we were able to
find rates that we liked and hard set them.
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Find
a place for the solenoid controller and mount it
firmly in the case. We mounted ours in the empty
space at the front of the case in the side panel.
Carefully solder the leads from the existing solenoids
to the board and apply power. Additionally, test
with a multimeter or something similar, not your
tongue… trust me. Finally, mount the tray
selector switch in an easily accessible place. We
mounted ours in the rear of the printer to keep
it as aesthetically pleasing as possible (excluding
the motor hanging out the side of the case of course…).
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Now
you’ll test-fit the panel to the case. If
you use the motor and printer that we did, you will
see that it protrudes out further than the side
of the case by about a half of an inch. Use a sharpie
to mark the shape of the motor and its position
on the inside of the case. Using a dermel tool,
cut a hole and test-fit the panel to make sure the
motor can fit without rubbing the edges of the panel.
It needs airflow as well. As the brushes are physically
exposed, you’ll want to “unexpose”
them. We mounted a simple 80mm case fan type grill
to the case to solve this problem. We didn’t
get electrocuted (this time).
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In
the rear of the printer, test-fit the paper shredder
to the printer; assuming you have all the wiring
working (you tested this by now, of course), you
can actually run the printer, feeding paper into
the paper shredder to help with alignment. Another
thing I did to help the reliability factor of this
is to create 2 flanges hanging off the front of
the shredder to act as a funnel, thus allowing some
variance in paper being fed into the shredder. Additional
tolerance is always a good thing to prevent a K22
paper jam.
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Finally,
replace the side panel of the case. The side panel
also provides the mounting surface for the shredder.
Using some good, coarse grabber-type drywall screws,
screw the shredder to the printer using the side
flanges on the shredder as the mount points. We
created pilot holes using a nail that we heated
in a torch to glowing hot and then melted the 4
holes clean through both the shredder and printer
plastics. (Yes we could have used a drill…
but playing with fire is kind of fun.) Make sure
it's secured really well, as the shredder will vibrate
and possibly work the screws out over time.
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| So there you have it. The main
part of the fabrication is done. All we have to
do now is test it and there you have it, your very
own anti-printer. |
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